Ten Two Studios » Projects

Six-Sided Tea Cup Set

Lisa — Sun, 17 Jul 2011 01:11:22 +0000

These are the instructions for assembling six-sided tea cup sets like the one shown. To make it, you’ll need:

From Ten Two Studios, a six-sided tea cup digital set. I used the Blue Tea Cup Set for this lesson.
Card stock, for printing.
A glue stick, or your favorite quick-drying paper glue.
A bamboo skewer.

If you’ll be filling the cup with tea bags or other goodies, you’ll also need:

A plastic or cello bag.
Ribbon.
A bamboo skewer or a coffee stirrer.

Print out the kit sheets on card stock.

Let’s start with the cup base. Cut out the large white notched piece around the outer edges. I find it’s easier to do the large cuts first, then come back and do the notches with small, sharp scissors.

Cut out the six printed rectangles, and glue them onto the cup base, centering each one between the grey guidelines, and between the top edge and the bottom guideline.

Fold the cup base on the grey guidelines to create six sections plus a tab.

Fold the bottom tabs toward the wrong side of the cup base, away from the printed sections.

Glue the long side tab of the cup base to the first section to create the cup sides.

Cut out the white hexagon, and glue it to the bottom tabs of the cup, lining up the bottom edges of the cup sides with the outer edge of the hexagon.

Cut out the long handle strip, and curl the ends with a bamboo skewer. Curl one end towards the printed side, and the other away from it.

Apply glue to the handle just beyond the curls, and attach it to one side of the cup. (I found red liner tape worked better for this than glue.)

Cut out the large white saucer, and the saucer trim. Glue them together, creating a double layered circle. While the glue is still workable, curve and press the circle a bit to give the outer edges a little lift.

Glue the bottom of the cup to the center of the saucer.

If you wish, decorate the cup or saucer with the flower and leave pieces. Curl the flower petals a bit, glue on leaves, and attach them wherever you like.

If you’re going to use the cup to hold goodies like candy or tea, start by sliding a plastic or cello bag into the cup. Fill the bag with goodies, rather than trying to cram a full bag into the assembled cup.

Tie the filled bag with ribbon, gather up the excess bag above the tie, and cut it off evenly. If you wish, cover the center of the knotted ribbon with another set of flower and leaves.

The sheet comes with a tag and some word ovals. Glue a word oval to the center of the tag, and tie it around the bag with a piece of string.

To make the circular sign, cut out the two small printed circles, and glue them back to back around a skewer or coffee stirrer. The set comes with word circles that you can glue to the centers. Slide the sign into the filled cup. (These circles would also make great cupcake banners—I’m just saying…)

Here’s another set of cups, made with the Garden Tea Cup Set. For this set, you can print the sheet with the cup base, saucer and handle twice, and the accessories sheet once to create the samples shown.

Vintage Twinchie Flip Book

Lisa — Tue, 12 Jul 2011 17:06:42 +0000

These are the instructions for assembling the flip book shown. To make it, you’ll need:

From Ten Two Studios, the Vintage Twinchie Flip Book digital set.
Heavy paper or card stock, for printing.
A glue stick, or your favorite quick-drying paper glue.
Chalk inkpads, if you wish.

Print the kit sheets on heavy paper or card stock.

Start by cutting out the two large pieces, which are the front and back covers and inside front page, and the interior pages.

Start with the smaller of the two large images: the front and back covers and inside front page. Fold the inside front page away from the covers.

Use a ruler or straight edge to fold the tab on the inside front page upward.

Fold the tab against the page.

Fold the cover in half, around the inside front page.

Accordion fold the larger piece. Fold each large section in half to create facing pages that match.

Here’s what you should have now: front and back covers with one tabbed page, and folded inner pages.

Attach the inner pages to the covers by gluing the tab behind the first inner page.

Apply glue to the back side of the entire book.

Refold the pages, pressing them back to back.

Keep refolding until all you have free is the inner back page.

Press the inner back page down onto the wrong side of the back cover, lining up the top, bottom and long side.

Here’s what you should have now: a fully assembled book with two sets of interior pages.

Hold the two interior pages together, and cut them on the two guidelines printed on the first page. Do not cut the front or back covers!

Here’s what you should have now: pages in three sections that flip freely.

If you wish, edge the pages and sections with chalk inkpads.

Decorate! Cut out heads, objects, legs, hats and glue them down to the page sections as you wish. Pieces can hang over the top edge of the book, or the bottom, but don’t let them hang over any of the interior cuts, or the book won’t flip properly.

Use the chalk inkpads to tone any pieces that are sticking out of the book.

Don’t forget to decorate the front cover. There are some cover blocks included on the sheets, and you can also use some of the spare pieces as embellishments.

Gilded Hearts Pop-Up Cards

Lisa — Fri, 11 Feb 2011 22:14:17 +0000

These are the instructions for assembling the cards shown. To make them, you’ll need:

From Ten Two Studios, the Gilded Hearts Pop-Up Cards set.
A half sheet of coordinating cardstock for each card.
A cutting mat, and a craft knife or X-acto knife.
A ruler.
A glue stick, or your favorite paper glue.
Chalk inkpads, if you wish.
Paper punches, scraps of cardstock, and glitter glue for making flowers, if you wish.
A hole punch.

Print out the card set on lightweight cardstock or bristol. I did my first set of test cards using plain paper, and they held up well, so if you prefer to use a heavy paper for printing, that might work as well.
Cut out the pop-up insert piece. You’ll see some black lines above and below the card—those are folding guide lines. Cut on the outer edge of the design on the two short sides, but leave a little white space at the top and bottom, so you can still see those guide lines. We’ll cut them off later.
Fold the insert in half. When you unfold it, you’ll see that your fold lines up with the center set of guide lines.
Cut the arched section of the pop-up heart, above the white banner, in the center of the gold trim line. Cut the bottom section below the white banner, down to the point of the heart. This will leave the top and bottom of the heart detached from the background, but the sides still attached by the banner.
Line your ruler up with the side guide lines, and gently press a fold into either side of the heart.
To make the heart pop outward, gently persuade the center fold outward.
Fold the card closed. Open, and you should have a pop-up heart.
Fold a half sheet of cardstock in half again to create a standard card.
Glue the folded insert into the card, lining up center folds. The insert is slightly smaller than the card, so there will be a border of cardstock around the outer edge.
Open the card, and set it aside to dry.
Cut out a card front and tag along their outer edges.
Cut a small section of the arch on the front of the card to create an opening.
Glue the card front to the front of the card, leaving the arched section unglued to create a pocket.
Punch out the hole in the tag, and insert it in the pocket.
If you wish, punch flowers from cardstock, and decorate the card and tag. Use glitter glue to make centers in the flowers.

Filigree Hearts Matchbox Shrines

Lisa — Mon, 24 Jan 2011 23:48:32 +0000

These are the instructions for assembling the matchbox shrines shown. To make them, you’ll need:

From Ten Two Studios, the Filigree Hearts Matchbox Shrines sheet.
Also from Ten Two Studios, matchboxes.
A piece of chipboard or heavy cardstock.
A glue stick, or your favorite quick-drying paper glue.
A craft knife.
Chalk inkpads, if you wish.
Acrylic paints.
Tiny bottles, flowers, and other goodies to fill your shrines.

Cut the pieces you’d like to use from the sheet. Don’t worry about cutting them exactly right now. You’ll need a large heart and some words or decorative hearts for the next step.

Glue the large heart, words and small hearts to a sheet of chipboard.

Cut out the pieces along their outer edges with sharp scissors.

If you want to make a shrine without doors, cut them away inside the gold borders, and remove the center rectangle completely.

If you’re making a shrine with doors, cut along the top and bottom edges of the center rectangle, inside the gold border. Also, cut down the center gold stripe, from the top cut to the bottom one.

If you’re making a shrine with doors, flip the heart over, and glue a large printed rectangle over the door area, to line the inside of the doors. When the glue dries, cut the top, bottom and center lines again.

Fold the doors open. You may want to score the back side slightly along the fold lines to make this easier.

Remove the inner tray from the matchbox, and cut one of the larger sides of the sleeve in half.

Refold the sleeve as shown, bending the cut sides outward.

Use some craft acrylics to paint the inside of the matchbox tray.

Also paint the first fold on either side of the matchbox sleeve.

Apply glue to the two end sections of the sleeve, and press them in place on the back side of the large heart, on either side of the opening or door. While the glue is still wet, slide the painted tray into the sleeve, and adjust the sleeve placement so it holds the tray in place firmly. Remove the tray to let the glue dry.

If any of the matchbox sleeve hangs out from the outer edge of the heart, trim those pieces away, using the heart edge as a guide.

If you wish, apply chalk ink to all the cut edges to tone down any white areas.

Glue a smaller printed rectangle into the back of the painted tray.

Apply glue to the back of the tray, and slide it back into the sleeve, positioning it so the bottom edge lines up with the bottom cut line of the opening.

If you wish, paint the back side of the shrine. My chipboard was white on the back side, so I just painted the matchbox sleeves.

Glue words or decorative hearts to the front of the shrine as desired.

Don’t forget to sign your work! There’s a small label included for each shrine that can be applied to the back of the matchbox sleeve.

Decorate and fill your shrines as you wish.

Victorian Hearts Matchbox Shrines

Lisa — Mon, 24 Jan 2011 23:25:59 +0000

These are the instructions for assembling the matchbox shrines shown. To make them, you’ll need:

From Ten Two Studios, the Victorian Hearts Matchbox Shrines sheet.
Also from Ten Two Studios, matchboxes.
A piece of chipboard or heavy cardstock.
A glue stick, or your favorite quick-drying paper glue.
A craft knife.
Chalk inkpads, if you wish.
Acrylic paints.
Tiny bottles, flowers, and other goodies to fill your shrines.

Cut the pieces you’d like to use from the sheet. Don’t worry about cutting them exactly right now. You’ll need a figure, wings, and some words or decorative hearts for the next step.

Glue the figure, wings, words and small hearts to a sheet of chipboard.

Cut out the pieces along their outer edges with sharp scissors. In a few places on each figure, you might need to use a craft knife to remove some white spaces.

If you want to make a shrine without doors, cut them away inside the gold borders, and remove the center rectangle completely.

If you’re making a shrine with doors, cut along the top and bottom edges of the center rectangle, inside the gold border. Also, cut down the center gold stripe, from the top cut to the bottom one.

Flip the figure over, and glue a large printed rectangle over the door area, to line the inside of the doors. When the glue dries, cut the top, bottom and center lines again.

Fold the doors open. You may want to score the back side slightly along the fold lines to make this easier.

If you wish, edge all the cut edges with chalk inkpads.

Remove the inner tray from the matchbox, and cut one of the larger sides of the sleeve in half.

Refold the sleeve as shown, bending the cut sides outward.

Use some craft acrylics to paint the inside of the matchbox tray.

Also paint the first fold on either side of the matchbox sleeve.

Apply glue to the two end sections of the sleeve, and press them in place on the back side of the figure, on either side of the opening or door.

While the glue is still wet, slide the painted tray into the sleeve, and adjust the sleeve placement so it holds the tray in place firmly. Remove the tray to let the glue dry.

Glue a smaller printed rectangle into the back of the painted tray.

Apply glue to the back of the tray, and slide it back into the sleeve, positioning it so the bottom edge lines up with the bottom cut line of the opening.

If you wish, paint the back side of the shrine. My chipboard was white on the back side, so I just painted the matchbox sleeves.

Glue words or decorative hearts to the front of the shrine as desired.

Bend the wings slightly on either side of the center body section.

Apply glue to the center of the wings, and allow it to get tacky.

Press the wings to the back side of the figure, and set it aside, face down, to allow the glue to dry.

Don’t forget to sign your work! There’s a small label included for each shrine that can be applied to the back of the matchbox sleeve.

Decorate and fill your shrines as you wish.

Puppy Love ATCs & Envelopes

Lisa — Sun, 16 Jan 2011 22:50:08 +0000

These are the instructions for assembling the digital artist trading cards and matching envelopes. To make the items shown, you’ll need:

From Ten Two Studios, the Puppy Love ATCs & Envelopes digital kit.
A piece of white cardstock.
A glue stick, or your favorite quick-drying paper glue.
A craft knife.
Chalk inkpads, if you wish.

For each ATC, cut a 5 x 3-1/2 inch piece of white cardstock.

Print the card and envelope sheets on white paper, and cut out the pieces you’re going to use. For each card, you’ll need an ATC strip, an envelope, a word, and a message block. You might also want a heart, too.

Each ATC strip has a large section, and a small one. Glue a white cardstock piece over the back of the large section, leaving the smaller section with no backing.

Fold the small, unbacked section of the ATC strip back, over the cardstock, and glue it down.

The heart on the front of the ATC has a pale section. Cut this heart-shaped section away with a craft knife to create a window.

If you wish, edge the inside of the heart with chalk inkpads.

Fold the card in half, matching edges. Your heart window should now frame the face of the girl inside the card.

On the front of the ATC, the hand is holding a printed card over the bouquet of flowers. This card is large enough to hold one of the word blocks. Glue one on the printed section—there will be just a tiny bit of the printed section framing it when you’re done.

On the inside of the card, glue one of the message blocks over the printed area. Try to keep it to the left side of the fold.

Now, let’s move on to the envelopes. Place it printed side down, with the large pointed section pointed upward. Fold the bottom flap upward.

Fold the two side triangles inward.

Fold the top flap downward.

There are two ways to finish the envelope. The first is to slide the card into the folded envelope without glueing the flaps.

Apply glue to the heart, and use it as a sticker to seal the envelope closed.

The second way to finish the envelope is to apply a tiny bit of glue to the two side triangles, and glue them to the lower flap.

Cone Dolls

Lisa — Sun, 12 Dec 2010 22:49:38 +0000

These are the instructions for assembling cone dolls. To make the dolls shown above, you’ll need:

From Ten Two Studios, a cone doll digital set of your choice. For these samples, I used the Snow Angels Cone Dolls set.
Heavy paper or lightweight bristol for printing. I don’t recommend using cardstock for this project.
A glue stick, or your favorite quick-drying paper glue.
Glitter glue, if you wish.
A large needle or push pin.
Battery operated tea lights. I found a two-pack at my local dollar store, in the candle aisle. Many stores that carry candles now carry these battery-operated lights as well. I probably don’t need to say this, but I will anyway: DO NOT USE TEA LIGHT CANDLES. YOU WILL LIGHT YOUR DOLLS, AND PROBABLY YOUR HOUSE, ON FIRE.

Print the cone dolls set on heavy paper, and out the pieces on each sheet.

Use a large needle or push pin to punch holes in the skirts. I punched holes in the centers of all the snowflakes, plus some extras around the outer edges of the large snowflakes at the bottoms of the skirts.

Decorate with glitter glue if you wish. I simply added some dots here and there.

When the glitter glue is dry, apply glue to the tab section along one side of the skirt.

Wrap the skirt into a cone, matching the lines and bottom edges at center back.

Fold the tabs on the wings back a bit, without making a crease, to give them a little dimension when attached to the doll.

Apply glue to the tabs, and attach the wings to the back of the doll bodies.

Turn on the tea lights, and place the finished cone dolls over them.

Here’s what the dolls look like when they’re lit up:

Bookmark, Envelope, Tag & Bookplate

Lisa — Thu, 28 Oct 2010 20:48:37 +0000

These are the instructions for assembling the pieces and parts included on the bookmark set sheets. To make the items shown above, you’ll need:

From Ten Two Studios, a bookmark set sheet of your choice. For these samples, I used the Cold & Alone sheet.
A glue stick.
A chalk ink pad, if you wish to tone your edges.
Ribbons for the bookmark tails.
A hole punch.

Print out the bookmark set on a sheet of index stock or card stock. Cut out all the pieces on their outer edges.

Start with the bookmark piece. Fold it in half, matching the long side edges.

Unfold the bookmark, and apply glue to the interior surface. Refold, pressing the gluey sides together.

The front face of the bookmark has rounded corners, but the back doesn’t. Go ahead and trim the back corners to match the front now. This will give you perfectly aligned corner rounds. Sneaky, right?

To tone down any white cut edges, you can apply a little chalk ink. I used some Charcoal ink for mine.

Punch a hole through the bookmark where indicated.

Thread some ribbons through the hole, and tie in a knot.

Now, let’s make the bookmark envelope. It uses three pieces: the front pocket, the lining, and the backing.

Start with the front pocket. fold the bottom tab upward.

Position the front lining over the pocket, so the side tabs are sticking out from under the lining evenly.

Fold the side tabs of the pocket over the lining, snugly against its sides. This will make a pocket that fits perfectly around the lining.

Apply glue to the pocket tabs.

Fold the tabs back over the lining. Now you have a pocket to hold the bookmark—but the back isn’t very pretty.

Apply glue to the whole back of the bookmark pocket and lining.

Place the backing over the gluey surfaces and press down. Now, the pocket has a clean finish on the back.

The pocket lining is rounded at the top, but the backing is squared. Cut the backing to match the lining now.

Edge the pocket with chalk inks if you wish.

Slide the bookmark into the pocket.

The gift tag simply needs a hole punched where indicated, and it’s ready to use.

The bookplate is ready to be glued into the front of your book.

If you’re giving this set as a gift with a book, glue the bookplate inside it, and tuck the bookmark and envelope inside the book. Wrap the book with the bookmark inside, and use the gift tag on the outside of the package.

Alternately, glue the bookplate inside your gift book, wrap it, and attach the gift tag to the package ribbons. Slide the bookmark and envelope under the ribbons.

Simple Standard Domino Pendants

Lisa — Sun, 18 Jul 2010 23:28:06 +0000

Turning standard domino game pieces into pendants is pretty simple. Here are two methods of finishing, using beads to create a hanger.

To make pendants with colored sides, you’ll need:

From Ten Two Studios, a standard domino image sheet of your choice. For these samples, I used the Colorful Standard Dominos sheet.
Standard dominos, also available from Ten Two Studios, at the link above.
Sharpie markers. You can also color the sides with acrylic paints or paint markers, but I like Sharpies best for their brilliant, transparent color.
Matte medium or gel medium.
A bead with a flat-ish side. The bead should be smaller than the shorter sides of the domino. Tubular beads with a hole large enough to accommodate a cord are best.
E6000 glue, or your favorite glue for heavy embellishments.
Rhinestones, sequins or other small, shiny items, if you wish.
Clear sealer, if you wish. I used a clear satin varnish.

Use a Sharpie marker to color the sides of a domino. Try to keep your fingers out of the wet ink. Be sure to let some of the color roll over the top edge a bit. Set the domino aside to let it dry.

While the dom is drying, cut out the image you’d like to use.

When the ink is dry, apply a light coat of matte or gel medium over the colored areas. Wipe your fingers off when you’re done, just to be sure you don’t drag any colored ink onto the next step.

Apply a tiny bit of medium onto the front face of the dom. Now, you’ll have to work quickly through the next few steps.

Place the image onto the wet medium, centering it.

Stroke a small bit of medium onto the front face of the image. This will make the image slightly damp on both sides, which reduces wrinkles.

While the medium is still damp, trim away any excess image hanging over the edges of the dom, and round the corners.

Apply a tiny bit of medium around the edges of the image, to be sure the trimming hasn’t caused it to separate from the dom.

Now’s a good time to add rhinestones or flat confetti bits. You can use the wet medium as an adhesive, or you can let the medium dry, and use glue. Set the decorated domino aside to dry completely.

Glue a bead onto the center top of the domino, using E6000.

To make pendants with metallic sides, you’ll need:

From Ten Two Studios, a standard domino image sheet of your choice. For these samples, I used the Grave Standard Dominos sheet.
Standard dominos, also available from Ten Two Studios, at the link above.
Wide Aluminum Tape, also available from Ten Two Studios.
Matte medium or gel medium.
A bead with a flat-ish side. The bead should be smaller than the shorter sides of the domino. Tubular beads with a hole large enough to accommodate a cord are best.
E6000 glue, or your favorite glue for heavy embellishments.
Glitter glue, if you wish.
Rhinestones, sequins or other small, shiny items, if you wish.
Clear sealer, if you wish. I used a clear satin varnish.

Cut out the images you’d like to use.

Apply a little medium to the front of a domino. Work quickly through the next few steps.

Press the image onto the wet medium.

Apply a tiny bit of medium over the front face of the image.

While it’s still damp, trim away any excess image hanging over the edges of the dom, and round the corners.

Apply a tiny bit of medium to the edges of the image, to seal them to the dom. Set aside to dry completely.

While the dom is drying, cut a 3/8″ strip from aluminum tape. Tip: this tape can be colored with Sharpies or alcohol inks, because it’s real metal—so, if you want blue tape, you can just color it blue. Yay!

Peel the protective backing off the tape, and starting at the top edge, press it onto all four sides of the domino. I lined the edge of my tape up with the back edge of the domino, which made the tape the tiniest bit taller than the side edges. Overlap the tape a bit at the end.

Roll that tiny bit of excess tape height over the front edge of the domino, to create a nice frame around the image.

If you wish, apply glitter glue to the image. (You’re doing this now rather than before taping because the glitter makes the edges of the dom lumpy.) If you wish, add rhinestones and sequins, applying with glue or medium.

Glue a bead onto the center top of the domino, using E6000.

Matchbox Books

Lisa — Mon, 08 Mar 2010 00:37:40 +0000

To make your matchbox book, you’ll need:

From Ten Two Studios, a matchbox book sheet. For my sample, I used the Leonardo’s Matchbox Book sheet.
A matchbox, also available from Ten Two Studios, at the link above.
A scrap of cardstock.
A glue stick.
Acrylic paints to match, if you wish.

Remove the tray from the matchbox, and paint it to match your sheet if you wish. Set it aside to dry.

At the left side of the sheet are the pieces required to decorate the matchbox and tray. Start by cutting out the wrapper, which has an image already positioned on a background.

Apply glue to the back of the wrapper piece, and centering the image on one large side of the matchbox sleeve, cover it completely, overlapping edges on a short side.

Trim away any excess wrapper from the top and bottom of the matchbox sleeve.

There’s an extra large image on the sheet, which you can use on the front of the matchbox sleeve if you wish. Just cut it out…

…and glue it over the wrapper image, covering it completely. (If you like the image that’s printed on the wrapper, just skip this step.)

There are a handful of long, narrow side labels included on the sheet. Cut out the two you’d like to use, and glue them to the sides of the sleeve. Trim away any excess at the top and bottom edges.

The printed rectangle is the tray liner. Just cut it out, and glue it to the interior of the tray.

Cut out the back label, and glue it to the back of the sleeve. Slide the tray into the sleeve, and set the box aside for the moment.

Now, let’s work on the book. Start with the cover, which is a piece with two register marks at each corner. Cut this piece out, and use the marks as guides to fold a narrow piece at either side.

Unfold, and use the other set of marks to fold a narrow piece at the top and bottom.

Trim away a tiny diagonal section at each corner of the cover.

Use the guide piece provided to trace two pieces on cardstock. Cut them out.

Using the folds as guides, glue the two cardstock pieces inside the cover. These will make the book a little more rigid.

Apply glue to the narrow folded sections, and press them down over the cardstock.

Fold the cover in half at the spine, between the two cardstock pieces.

Cut out the long strip of pages. It has guide pieces along each long side, which you can leave attached for now, or trim away if you feel confident in your folding abilities.

Starting at one sort edge, fold up on the first set of guidelines, matching the cut edge to the second set, creating matching facing pages.

Continue folding pages upward in an accordion, making sets of matching, facing pages.

If you left the guides in place for folding, now’s the time to trim them away.

Apply glue to the back side of the page strip/

Press pages together back to back, leaving the two end pages loose, to create the pages of the book.

Apply glue to the two end flaps of the pages.

Press the page block between the covers, pushing it agains the spine.

Use the remaining small images and words to decorate the cover of the book…

…and the interior pages as you wish. You might also use some of the words to decorate the front of the matchbox.

Place the finished book in the tray section of the matchbox…

…and slide the sleeve over it.

Don’t forget to sign and date your work, on the back label!